Small things gone unnoticed or unrepaired
can lead to big problems once the weather turns cold, wet and
windy. Here are 8 ways to avoid major damage.
Its mid-autumn, which means that the season
of Atlantic nor'easters and Midwest blizzards, is almost under
way.
No sweat, you say: I've already cleaned the
gutters and tossed more insulation into the attic.
Those are solid steps toward basic winterization.
But have you truly storm proofed your home?
We asked the experts to identify the easily
overlooked issues that, when left unaddressed, cause major headaches
once Old Man Winter rambles down the block. Here are their eight
heavy-weather tips:
Don't let the small stuff go
The first thing you want to do this weekend
is slowly walk around the outside of your home, keeping an eye
out for anything amiss. You're looking for anything as simple
as storm windows that haven't yet been put in place, to shrubs
that have been allowed to grow in front of south-facing windows,
which will block out much-welcome sunlight during the winter.
But you're also looking for small damage that needs repair.
Researchers at Florida
International University's International Hurricane Research
Center found that even a few missing or loose roof shingles
severely compromised the integrity of the whole house when
winds reached 125 mph. Granted, those are hurricane-force blows.
But "there are things that can fail
at lower wind speed that are workmanship-only" related. Researchers
have seen shingles and tiles dislodge at winds of 80 mph if there
is shoddy construction and the bad workmanship wasn't evident
prior to the simulated storm. And even a few shingles ripped
away during a heavy storm can lead to serious water damage.
Repair leaks
Time was, if you had some moisture weeping
or water leaking around a window, the wood framing and sheathing
around it could take some yearly winter-time wetting and, combined
with summer-time drying, survive it. But today's lesser-quality
buildings don't ventilate nearly as well. Since things are built
more air- and weather-tight, there isn't that same drying that
used to occur during the summer months.
Also, look closely at the wall siding. You're
looking for places that wind can drive the precipitation into
the wall and where that moisture can migrate down into the wall
cavity, but also where water droplets can be drawn back into
the adjacent balcony, deck, roof or wall by capillary action.
Make sure that everything is properly flashed and sealed, and
that the flashings are intact with overlaps sealed so that during
wind-driven rain, water can't migrate into the wall cavity.
Leaks aren't always
where they appear, either. Evidence of one sometimes pops up
20 or 30 feet from the actual leak. If you suspect a leak and
can do the following test safely, train a garden hose on the
suspected hole and see where water emerges. For covering the
openings we recommend a durable flashing elasticized membrane
that will "heal" around staples or nails
and make a tight, waterproof seal.
Hit the roof
The roof is a major point of vulnerability
for a home. During your fall inspection, or when you're on a
ladder cleaning your gutters, take a close look around. Pay particular
attention to the following:
Faulty flashing: Make sure all flashings around
such roof penetrations as skylights and chimneys are in place.
Damaged or missing shingles: A few missing
shingles, as the hurricane center found, can quickly expose a
home to water and wind damage. Water that gets under the roof
shingles can quickly migrate down into the walls, creating all
sorts of problems including leaks or flooding, mold, structural
damage and damage to furniture.
Granules in your gutters: When composition
roofing (the roofing many Americans have) gets old it crumbles,
and a buildup of granules is a telltale sign.
Clogged roof vents: If those vents are blocked
by bird nests or bee hives, for example, condensation builds
up during the winter and mold develops. I've seen a lot of attics
that have mold problems on their roof decking that's the wood
under the shingles and caused thousands of dollars in damage
or cleanup, or both.
Whether you want to
tackle home-roofing repairs depends on how handy you are, how
extensive the repairs are, and how steep your roof is. And
remember, even a seemingly intact roof can cause big problems
if it was constructed or repaired with shoddy workmanship,
as the hurricane center found.
Break the Dam
In colder parts of the country, ice dams are
another concern for homeowners. Ice dams form when snow melts
off a warmer rooftop, then freezes again when it reaches the
colder eaves. The resulting mass of ice blocks the gutters and
downspouts. Water that comes later can't drain, so it runs under
shingles and enters the walls of a home and can cause serious
damage before you ever notice.
What to do? If you've got electrified de-icing
cables on your eaves (which many homes do in the upper Midwest,
for example), check to make sure they're working. You should
be able to switch them on and they should feel lukewarm to the
touch enough to melt ice.
Other things you can do, according
to insurer MetLife:
Keep your attic chilly so that snow doesn't melt in the
first place. Do this by insulating under the roof, and blocking
any places where heat rises into the attic.
During the winter, try to keep snow
off the roof with a roof rake. And filling an old nylon
stocking with snowmelt and placing it atop an ice dam (perpendicular
to the gutter edge) will create a channel off the roof’s
edge for water to flow.
Vulnerable trees
Falling trees or falling branches severely
damage houses. If it's hanging over a house, then the house is
a target and the tree's a concern.
Homeowners should inspect trees each autumn
keeping an eye out for any cracking branches. Another thing to
note is the angle of the branches: If the branch crotch is sharply
V-shaped, that tends to mean the branch is more susceptible to
failure than a U-shaped branch. Pear trees, silver maples, some
poplars and cottonwoods are all trees that homeowners should
be more wary of, he says, because the limbs can break more easily
than those of other trees in heavy weather.
Branches hanging over a house should be pruned
back. But if you've got a tree that hasn't been tended to recently,
branches can be selectively thinned on the main limbs to lighten
their load and reduce the potential for breakage.
Can Joe Homeowner do this? If you can't prune
it from the ground, I would call in an expert if only for the
safety aspect. And poor pruning can have unintended consequences:
If you don't prune a crabapple tree correctly you'll actually
stimulate growth, and have to prune it again in a shorter amount
of time.
If your town gets an early-season snowstorm,
or an ice storm, and your trees still haven't dropped their leaves
the extra weight of the ice or snow coated leaves can severely
weaken limbs. Take a tall broom or rake outside, and bounce the
branches to lighten their load, Jones suggests, and that will
keep them, and your home, from more harm.
Make the grade
The best defense against a flooded basement
or water-damaged foundation is a good offense. We want our water
flowing away from our foundations. How to achieve that? Make
sure you have the proper grading. If the ground looks like it's
sloping down toward the foundation, it probably is.
Bring on the dirt-filled wheelbarrows! You'll
need enough to get some slope in the other direction. Experts
recommend at least one inch of fall per foot and we recommend
six inches over four feet.
If you hire someone for this job, make sure
he uses water-phobic clay, with only about an inch of absorbent
mulch or topsoil atop it.
Repair stairs, seal concrete paths
In Ohio in the winter you get the most damage
done to the exterior of the property because of the temperature
changes and freeze-thaw cycles. Daytime rain insinuates itself
into crevices in wood and concrete, then freezes at night, further
weakening often-used places such as stairs.
It's similarly a good time to seal concrete
steps and sidewalks. Concrete is not waterproof. It's porous,
like a sponge. As a result, it soaks up water during warmer days,
then freezes at night, expands and cracks. It also heaves with
the ground below it. But sealing it as well as keeping the surrounding
area well-drained will help reduce the amount of cracking and
heaving, and prolong the concrete's life.
And once winter does arrive, treat your walkway
kindly: Many people use sodium chloride (salt) to keep pathways
clear. That's a mistake. It eats away at concrete and patching
compound never quite matches when you try to fix it later. Instead,
use a product with calcium chloride, which causes no damage and
is safe for pets, she says. Simple steps can save you major,
major work in the long run.
Sign the contract
Goff Home Inspection encourages
people to buy warranties when it comes to the service contract
on your home's heating system. Why? Because there's never a good
time for your heat to go out and when it does, the repairs are
rarely cheap. When you're going to use that service contract,
and it's going to be invaluable.